Postcard from the Côte d'Azur
We say that someone from the Local Foreigner team is always on the road, visiting destinations across the globe - but we really mean always. Our monthly Postcard takes you along for the ride, and this month, we're taking you to the Côte d'Azur - but this stretch of coast is so packed that in this edition, we're focusing on the 25 miles from Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat to Cannes, an area closely associated with literary greats and legendary painters.
Often referred to as the Mediterranean's playground, those who’ve summered in the Côte d'Azur know the sublime pleasure of its stereo: the constant swish-swish of the Cypress trees, the steady hum of the cicadas, the crunch of rocky shorelines beneath leather sandals – a seasonal soundtrack so beguiling, it’ll replay in your memory long after you’ve left. Base yourself in the picture-perfect seaside enclave of Antibes or on the rocky cliffs of Eze, in the glamour of Cannes or near the artists' enclave of Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat - there are charming streets to get lost down and rays to soak up anywhere you land.
The French Riviera is dotted with towns so picturesque you’d think the scenes were plucked from the pages of a storybook - and often, they are, as these pebbly shores and winding roads were the playground of choice for a legendary group of creatives during the 1920s. Ernest Hemingway, Cole and Linda Porter, Pablo and Olga Picasso, and F. Scott and Zelda Fitzgerald were among the storied names who flitted between Cap d'Antibes, Juan-les-Pins, and Nice, enjoying (and documenting) old towns full of cobblestone streets, local markets, and charming cafes, some of France’s best beaches.
While we think of the beaches of the Med as a prime summer destination, the authors and artists of the golden age glitterati decamped to the South of France as a winter escape.
These days, most waterfront hotels are only open seasonally over the warmer months, with Grand-Hotel du Cap-Ferrat opening in mid February and taking down its beach umbrellas in mid-November, and Hotel du Cap-Eden-Roc open from mid April to mid October.
Nice and Cannes are busy year-round, dipping into the 50s in the winter months.
Grand-Hôtel du Cap-Ferrat, A Four Seasons Hotel
With such a privileged location on the very tip of Saint Jean’s illustrious cape, you could forgive Grand-Hôtel du Cap-Ferrat, A Four Seasons Hotel if she were a stuffy grande dame who knows she’s pretty. But despite a century of Riviera royalty coming and going, warm service shines here, leaving guests to feel at ease in such exquisite surroundings. All of Cap Ferrat’s most stunning attractions are within a scenic drive, but we’ll hardly blame you if you choose to spend the entirety of your vacation at Club Dauphin, wrapped up in a striped pool towel, Cote de Provence in hand. | View the hotel
Chateau Saint-Martin & Spa
The Chateau St. Martin was once a 12th century knights’ stronghold, but now houses forty-six magical guestrooms and a two-Michelin-starred restaurant. Fans of Oetker's Hotel Le Bristol and Hotel du Cap will enjoy the Chateau’s spacious rooms and toile interiors, but the real edge is its sublime location. Set atop a hill with thirty acres of rich Provencal landscape and remarkable views of the Mediterranean, guests not only have access to a delightful pool area, and relaxing La Prairie spa, but also receive day privileges to Chateau St. Martin’s fabulous sister hotel, Hotel Du Cap Eden Roc. | View the hotel
Hotel Du Cap-Eden-Roc
The legendary Hotel du Cap has defined elegance and style for generations. Located on twenty-two acres of private gardens on the southernmost tip of Cap-d‘Antibes, the Hotel du Cap is comprised of 117 rooms located across three buildings: the original Villa, the Villa Fontaine, and the Eden Roc Pavilion by the sea. Carved into the rocks, you will find the hotel’s famous saltwater swimming pool and two restaurants; the spa and five-court tennis club are equally fabulous. This Oetker Collection hotel delivers a level of service to match the outstanding hotel, which is what draws families to return for generations. | View the hotel
Hôtel du Couvent
In contrast to the flashier properties that dot the coast, Hôtel du Couvent has positioned itself as an escape from the glitz—a serene sanctuary in the heart of Old Town Nice. The two lush gardens, one of which is traditional, the other tropical, offer a quiet alternative to the usual beachside bustle. Inside, the 17th-century convent has been lovingly restored by hotelier Valéry Grégo and Studio Mumbai, and rustic, untouched walls and original floors keep its storied past alive. Chic, minimalist rooms bathe in sunlight and feature handpicked antiques and fresh flowers. Sustainability is also a major pillar, with organic produce from the hotel’s nearby farm, a resident herbalist whipping up custom-made remedies, and a Roman-inspired spa offering tranquil thermal baths. | View the hotel
Hotel Barrière Le Majestic
Hotel Barrière Le Majestic, set along Cannes’ famed Croisette, is steeped in Riviera charm and cinematic history. This icon has welcomed film stars and jet-setters since 1926, and all of its sea view room and suites have been freshly renovated this winter to celebrate. Starting April 4, guests can do as the stars do and lunch at the legendary Ciro’s restaurant, an icon of Deauville since 1920, which is coming to the Majestic Beach, offering reimagined coastal cuisine. The chic décor, designed by Jordane Arrivetz, draws inspiration from the Mediterranean - perfect for those seeking a blend of timeless sophistication and modern luxury steps from the Palais des Festivals. | View the hotel
La Petite Maison Cannes
With all the airy glamor you’d expect from the sun-soaked celebrity playground of Cannes, this Palm Beach hotspot puts on a show both in location—the view from the terrace stetches from Cap d’Antibes to the Lerins Islands—and ambience. The food takes a simple, fresh Mediterranean approach, with shareable plates perfect for grazing over a glass or two of rosé.
La Colombe d'Or
Founded as a Jazz-era café in 1920 in the artist-magnet town of St. Paul de Vence, this iconic restaurant and hotel has a farmhouse-chic dining room hung with Picassos and Monets and an expansive terrace where guests choose traditional dishes like grilled sole and foie gras from a hand-written menu.
La Guérite
What started in 1902 as a fisherman's cabin is now one of the most glittering reservations in France. Perched on Île Sainte-Marguerite, only accessible via a short boat ride, La Guérite serves a fresh menu of Mediterranean flavors, but this seaside hangout is all about the atmosphere.
Maybourne La Plage
Maybourne La Plage graces the picturesque tip of Cap Martin, just a stone’s throw from the glamour of Monaco and the Italian border. Designed as an homage to the golden age of the Côte d'Azur, with spritz-colored umbrellas and peachy beach chairs, lunch here is filled with fresh-from-the-sea delicacies.
Paloma Beach
Open since 1948, Paloma Beach is Cap Ferrat's most iconic beach club, located on the pebbly shoreline of its namesake. With incredible views across the sea, the restaurant is sweetly decorated with yester-year memorabilia, like vintage mopeds and classic red signage. Come for an entire afternoon to soak up the timeless South-of-France atmosphere.
La Chevre d'Or Gourmet Restaurant
At destination restaurant La Chèvre d’Or, Arnaud Faye celebrates the authenticity of an exceptional terroir, which stretches from the rocky foothills of the Mercantour to the intense blue waters of the Mediterranean Sea. His menu, inspired from these contrasts, magnifies the products of the Riviera and the up-country.
Mamo le Michaelangelo
One of the hottest tables on the French Riviera is run by jubilant chef Mamo, who has managed the authentic Italian restaurant since he moved to Antibes over 50 years ago. The restaurant serves sophisticated Italian classics from Mamo's home, and boasts an impressive roster of Italian and French wines. Its popularity has even spawned a second location in New York.
Cap d'Antibes by Private Boat
Cruise along the stunning coastline to Cap d'Antibes, known for its beautiful beaches, and picturesque scenery, charming town with lively cafes and chic boutiques, and rich history. For lunch, stop at the iconic Hotel Eden Roc restaurant, a true institution of the Cote d'Azur, before you return to your charter for more fun in the sun. The day is yours to spend as you please, and your captain will tailor the route to your tastes and interests.
Private Perfume Workshop in Grasse
Discover the "world capital of perfume" with a visit to iconic perfume factories like Galimard, Molinard, or Fragonard. Explore Grasse's charming old town's narrow streets and picturesque squares, before stopping into the International Perfumery Museum to delve into the history of fragrance. During an exclusive workshop with one of Grasse's nez (noses), you will learn how to create a signature fragrance, tailored to your preferences and personality. You'll be guided on an olfactory journey through the essence of Provence while discovering the secrets of perfume making.
Saint-Paul-de-Vence & Eze Hilltop Villages Tour
The charming village of Saint-Paul-de-Vence is filled with cobblestone streets, overflowing flower pots, statues nestled in alcoves, fountains, and vines crawling up the stone. You'll be amazed by the secrets that lie hidden in this magical place. After lunch, head to the lovely medieval village of Eze. Be charmed by the quiet beauty of the art galleries, boutiques, and sidewalk cafes. You may even opt to go on a leisurely hike down to the sea along the lovely Nietzsche path, named after the philosopher who found inspiration for "Thus Spake Zarathustra" while hiking this trail every day when he lived in the area.
Chasing the Light
Berthe Morisot, Henri Matisse, Claude Monet, Jacqueline Marval, and Marc Chagall are among the myriad artists inspired by their time in the South of France; pair it with neighboring Provence by car or train for a full palette of inspiration.
Tricolor
With a three hour drive (or in a day by sea), wave goodbye to Cap Ferrat after breakfast, have a leisurely lunch in Monaco, and make it to Portofino by happy hour.
Cubist Coast
Pablo Picasso is closely associated with Malaga, Madrid, Barcelona, and Antibes (his former home is now the Musée Picasso Antibes); all three destinations in Spain can be reached by a quick non-stop from Nice.
