Postcard from Paris
We say that someone from the Local Foreigner team is always on the road, visiting destinations across the globe - but we really mean always. Our monthly Postcard takes you along for the ride, and this month, we're just back from Paris.
The unfair task of distilling Paris into words has plagued writers for centuries. And while Hemingway’s “moveable feast” and Joyce’s “atmosphere of spiritual effort” fill us with fleeting satisfaction, the true essence of Paris will always be impossible to pin down. Instead, we rely on our mental snapshots of the city perfect – a glass of Kir on a café table, a hidden gallery in St. Germain, a sunset stroll along the Seine – these snippets of yearning the shared currency we pay for the privilege of calling Paris ours.
Paris is a collection of arrondissements, or neighborhoods, that spiral outward clockwise from the center like a snail shell. Each has their own character, landmarks, and culinary influences; many of the top attractions, including museums and art galleries, are clustered near each other in the center of the city, but don't limit yourself. No matter where you wander, Paris is stylish, with a penchant for sophisticated street style. No matter the season, a trip to Paris is all about looking good, so pack your bags with French finery.
Doris Day sang it best:
I love Paris in the springtime
I love Paris in the fall
I love Paris in the winter when it drizzles
I love Paris in the summer when it sizzles
There's never a bad time to visit, but things get especially busy around Fashion Weeks (end of January, early March, late June/early July, and the end of September), during Roland-Garros (end of May), and over Bastille Day (July 14).
The Ritz Paris
A legendary property with a storied history, the Ritz Paris has defined Parisian opulence for decades - its distinguished front entrance on the Place Vendome has welcomed the likes of Marcel Proust, Coco Chanel, and the Duke and Duchess of Windsor. While it’s easy to imagine the grandeur of its heyday, the Ritz remains pertinent today. Its palatial interiors convey an inimitable sense of luxury that feels classically Parisian, without pretense, and its doting service is renowned for its personalization and perception. No matter your reason for visiting, don’t leave without stopping by Bar Hemingway for one of their signature cocktails. | View the hotel
J.K. Place Paris
This Left Bank beauty is the J.K. group's first venture outside of Italy, and though it's certainly Parisian at heart, the hotel maintains the brand's Italian soul. Familiar interiors display the refined decadence of Florentine architect Michele Bonan - a crisp blend of elegance and restrained maximalism, married with an air of Italian warmth - a real attribute in a city occasionally dinged for its not-so-welcoming atmosphere. Plus, an outpost of Miami's famed Casa Tua brings a much needed splash to the sometimes staid 7th arrondissement. | View the hotel
Maison Barrière Vendôme
It's hard to get more quintessentially and centrally Parisian than Rue de Castiglione, which connects the expanse of the Place Vendôme to the wide promenades of the Tuileries Gardens. And in January, on this coveted block, Groupe Barrière debuted their new love letter to the city and some of its most iconic historic residents: Maison Barrière Vendôme. Over eight years, the building that formerly housed Lacoste's headquarters has been painstakingly crafted into a 26-room jewelbox, with each room, suite, and apartment dedicated to a different woman with ties to Paris - everything from precious fabrics to vintage objects has been carefully selected to evoke their histories, essences, and legacies. (There are also big updates coming to its older sister, Fouquet's Paris, which refreshed its spa this spring and is getting a bright new lobby as part of the brand's new outlook and dedication to luxury.) | View the hotel
Bvlgari Hotel Paris
The Bvlgari Hotel Paris, which opened late 2021, brings some Italian cool to the flashy 8th arrondissement. The building was originally an office building from the 1970s, and while it's been totally rebuilt, the architects retained many sleek, contemporary features, setting the design apart from the ornate French Palace hotels in its comp set. The sophisticated décor features rich marble, sleek lines, and custom-made furnishings, with pops of jewel tones here and there; in the summer, make sure you enjoy dinner in the garden, which is paved with stones salvaged from a French chateau. | View the hotel
LouLou
A cheeky play on "Louvre" this lighthearted fine dining restaurant located within the Musée des Arts Décoratifs serves refined French and Italian cuisine with astounding views of its famous neighbor. After your meal, don't forget to exit through the (extremely well curated) gift shop.
Le Petit Lutetia
This classic Paris bistro hits all the right décor notes: charming mirrored walls, monogrammed dishes, haphazard stacks of newspapers, and too-small tables. While the food is certainly delightful, it's the people watching that's worth lingering for. Beautifully-outfitted Parisians waft in and out, drinking endless glasses of wine. The dessert is made in-house and should not be missed for anything (yes, even the sparkling Eiffel Tower).
Bar Nouveau
With elegant, swooping woodwork straight out of a turn of the century absinthe ad, Bar Nouveau's commitment to all things beautiful extends from the bar to the glassware to the staff's uniform. Remy Savage, a celebrity in the cocktail world, heads up the team.
Folderol
Natural wines, a rotating menu of ice creams, and a sign out front that says "No TikTok" - Folderol could only exist in frothy France. The bar is from the creative husband and wife team behind the enigmatic and ever-evolving Le Rigmarole, which is just down the street.
Chez L'Ami Louis
This classic brasserie in the bustling Marais is known for its delectable roast chicken. Bring some friends and have one to share, and don't forget the decadent foie gras. Not on the menu but always in order: a classic French experience, complete with decadently large portions and predictably terse (but efficient) waiters.
Jaïs
A must-of-the-moment restaurant from Moroccan chef Jaïs Mimoun, Jaïs is a bistro and wine bar in the 7th with a bigger, better menu than you might expect, and a perfectly Parisian buzz. Don't book any earlier than 9PM and if the langoustine pasta is on the menu, order two servings.
Cooking Class with Le Cordon Bleu at Hotel de la Marine
Experience a culinary journey at Hotel de la Marine for an authentic French cooking lesson. The gorgeous museum, which used to house the king's furniture, crown jewels, and decorative arts, opened to the public in 2021. With a Le Cordon Bleu Chef at as your teacher, craft seasonal French dishes from scratch. Indulge in your creations on-site, complemented by a glass of champagne or wine, as a celebration of French gastronomy and your work from the kitchen to the table.
Covered Passages of Paris
Dating back to the 19th century, these galleries highlight a particular niche in Parisian architecture. Accompanied by a specialist, discover the little boutiques, tea shops and restaurants hidden within, and step inside history as you navigate the arcades. Along your tour, visit the oldest passage, the Passage des Panoramas which dates back to 1799 and includes a theatre which is still active today. As each passage has its own speciality, you are sure to stumble across a variety of cultures, styles and traditions.
Underground Louvre Tour with a Curator
Taking a behind the scenes look at the Louvre with the guidance of a museum curator is a must-do experience for all art lovers visiting Paris. Your private tour begins with exclusive access to rooms that are typically closed to the public, including the Louvre's subterranean enclaves, where a vast auditorium, enormous lifts, and even a fire station are hidden in the depths of the basement. After passing through secret tunnels, your curator will lead you to museum's classical masterpieces and cater the rest of the tour to your artistic preferences.
Barging In
If a few days in the French capital doesn't have you contemplating a permanent relocation, add on a week cruising the canals and rivers of French wine country with Les Bateaux Belmond, a fleet of luxury barges retrofitted for the good life.
Of Corsica
250 miles off the coast of Marseille, Corsica is one of the most unspoiled destinations in the Mediterranean. Part of France but very much its own identity, visitors come to Corsica to explore hidden coves by boat, hike along seaside cliffs, and be dazzled by the island's natural beauty.
Afrique, c'est Chic
With nonstop flights from Paris to Cape Town, Nairobi, Kilimanjaro, Zanzibar, and Kigali, a few days in Paris is the best way to break up the long travel time to (or home from) southern and eastern Africa.
